VTX 1800S Inconsistent Idle

Tech Q&A for the VTX 1800 - PLEASE keep this section tech-oriented only!

VTX 1800S Inconsistent Idle

Postby armyjag » Tue Jun 02, 2015 8:21 am

Recently my bike has started to idle inconsistently at startup and throughout riding. To give you an idea of the issue - Start the bike up in the morning and has a normal idle. Ride down the road a bit and the idle raises significantly and will vary down and up. The one thing that helps is running the bike in a gear with the RPMs at a high rate and seems to at least part of the time to bring the idle back to normal. However, there are times where I could be sitting at a stop light and the idle will increase while standing still.

Perplexed about what the cause of the problem is.

Any ideas?

Thanks

Dave
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Re: VTX 1800S Inconsistent Idle

Postby Bareass172 » Tue Jun 02, 2015 11:24 am

We discussed this to some degree here:
viewtopic.php?f=86&t=2410
(for reference)
Are you sure you got all your vacuum ports routed correctly?
Did you ever get your idle adjuster working properly?
You removed a PC3 unit, did you check the yellow/red wire I mentioned where the PC3 was tied into the wire harness? The vampire clip from the PC3 can cut through that wire causing intermittent connections and problems like this.
The last thing I can recommend, off the top of my head, is to give your intake runner clamps a couple of turns:
Image
I believe it's a 2 or 2.5mm allen. They are plastic, so do not expect them to snug down tight or you will break them. The very early VTX models (which yours is) occasionally had issues with these being slightly loose. A couple of turns each would ensure that's not part of the problem too. If they were leaky then fresh air could get in, skewing the air/fuel ratio and your idle.

So check that stuff out and post back. :thumb:
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Re: VTX 1800S Inconsistent Idle

Postby armyjag » Tue Jun 02, 2015 11:42 am

Bare,

I did tighten down the plastic clamp - it was a little loose. I did a visual on the yellow/red wire, however I found another post you did in regards to this issue.

I also found a posting in regards to the idle adjustment issue, as I have not got that figured out yet. It was a random item as it worked fine one day, and then became an issue.

Will check the intake clamps as well.

Will keep you posted.
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Re: VTX 1800S Inconsistent Idle

Postby Bareass172 » Mon Jun 08, 2015 1:58 pm

I completely forgot to mention checking synchronization.
http://tech.bareasschoppers.com/intake/ ... -vtx-1800/

viewtopic.php?f=86&t=2391
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Re: VTX 1800S Inconsistent Idle

Postby armyjag » Fri Jun 12, 2015 7:48 am

Bareass172 wrote:I completely forgot to mention checking synchronization.
http://tech.bareasschoppers.com/intake/ ... -vtx-1800/

viewtopic.php?f=86&t=2391


Bare,

I am looking into getting one of the throttle body sync tools. Is there a difference and/or preference in any of these brands?

Image

Been looking at the yellow/red wire connected to the ECU, and haven't found any indication yet of it being broken, or for that matter a Vampire Clip being used. I am removing the black electricians tape just to ensure I inspect closely as you recommended. However, while working on these wires, ran across the above pictured connector. I am not sure what or where this should be, and thought would ask for your guidance again.

Checked also the Idle adjuster, gave it a turn and shot some WD 40 on the spring, and started and attempted to adjust the idle, which didn't work again. The next test I was thinking about was to have someone turn the adjuster knob and I watch the needle to see if there is any movement whatsoever. At this point, don't really know what the next step should be in regards to the idle adjuster.

As always, thanks for your advice and direction.
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Re: VTX 1800S Inconsistent Idle

Postby Bareass172 » Fri Jun 12, 2015 2:50 pm

armyjag wrote:I am looking into getting one of the throttle body sync tools. Is there a difference and/or preference in any of these brands?

I own the carbtune for many reasons:
http://www.carbtune.com/
It is stainless rods instead of liquid so you don't have the problems and concerns that come with liquid. I reference 3 others in the article on sync'ing, but for one time use they can be pricey. I would recommend doing a google search for "DIY carb sync tool" or something similar and you'll find a LOT of DIY options guys make themselves. Find something you feel comfortable making and try that. The biggest concerns you have to contend with will be some kind of restrictor in the hose. The big displacements of the VTX motor will create so much fluctuation in vacuum that a liquid gauge will do 1 of 2 things - have insane pulses of fluid making it impossible to calibrate OR you'll just suck the fluid right into the motor when you start it. Even my carbtune has restrictors just to even out pulses. I did a quick search on what you could use for restrictors and found lots of results but none I could quickly recommend. You'll have to dig and see what you can make yourself, the key is to make sure they are absolutely equal in size. I saw one where a guy stuck a hot paperclip through a solid piece of plastic to make a hole - NOT consistent enough for this. If you have a small piece of tube that fits in your big piece of tube or similar that might work. The thing is, the smaller the better in this case as it will make the fine tuning much easier. The restrictors in my carbtune are so small I couldn't even measure the hole to give you an idea - they are much smaller than even the smallest drill bit you'd get in a standard bit set. Be sure if you go the DIY route you have a restrictor, it is required for checking this motor, just do a little digging and I think you'll find your answer.

armyjag wrote:Been looking at the yellow/red wire connected to the ECU, and haven't found any indication yet of it being broken, or for that matter a Vampire Clip being used. I am removing the black electricians tape just to ensure I inspect closely as you recommended.

You mentioned having removed a PC3 last year so there would have been a connection to that yellow/red wire, it was necessary for the PC3 to function. Look for "slices" in the outside of the wire and that's where it would have been so check there. Perhaps run your finger down the insulation and feel for a rough spot, after a year it may be hard to find but it really should stand out. I do know that it wouldn't have been inside the wire harness so you probably don't need to open it up beyond the tape.

armyjag wrote:Image
However, while working on these wires, ran across the above pictured connector. I am not sure what or where this should be, and thought would ask for your guidance again.
That is nothing more than a connection point for ground wires. Several ground wires enter that and there is a piece of metal that bridges them all together. No need to worry about it at all, just tuck it back where it was.

armyjag wrote:Checked also the Idle adjuster, gave it a turn and shot some WD 40 on the spring, and started and attempted to adjust the idle, which didn't work again. The next test I was thinking about was to have someone turn the adjuster knob and I watch the needle to see if there is any movement whatsoever. At this point, don't really know what the next step should be in regards to the idle adjuster.

Perhaps try this. If you have the intake off the bike so you can see all this stuff, unhook the idle adjuster knob/cable from the left side of the bike between the motor and pull it through to the other side so it just hangs straight down. You should be able to just push it up and out of the clip holding it. Sometimes when they're bound up, just flexing the cable like that helps break things loose AND sometimes taking the bend out of the cable helps it move as well. A squirt of WD-40 (like you said) isn't bad either as gravity will slowly pull it through the cable and lubricate the inside as well as help prevent future corrosion from moisture. I also find with the adjuster and throttle body on the same side you can actually SEE what you're doing as you turn it. When all else fails, you can carefully grab the adjuster cable with pliers just under the washer where it meets the spring. It is solid there and turning it in that spot may finally break it loose if that's where it's stuck. Just remember to keep an eye on where it's set now so you can get it back in that same area when you're done. Obviously after sync'ing you may need to tweak it, but you don't want it to be so far off the bike won't idle when you get started.

armyjag wrote:As always, thanks for your advice and direction.

Always glad to help. :beer:
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Re: VTX 1800S Inconsistent Idle

Postby yfx4 » Fri Jun 12, 2015 4:04 pm

This is an interesting sync tool. A guy on ValkyrieForum.com makes them.....hence the 6 readouts.

http://thedigisync.com/
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Re: VTX 1800S Inconsistent Idle

Postby armyjag » Thu Jun 18, 2015 8:50 am

Did the ground fix on the bike and cleaned all connections.

Took the idle adjustment and WD-40 the part. In addition, turned the adjustment and no indication of any binding in the device.

Unwrapped the tape on the wire (yellow w/red stripe) and inspected it carefully and didn't find any breaks or indication there is any issue with the wire.
However, in the photo below, found this wire that was spliced together - seems like a sold connection, but if there is any recommendation to make a better connection, please let me know.
ImageImage

I have not done the TB sync as I found a homemade one I may try to get this bike back on the road. Here is the link: http://www.instructables.com/id/DIY-Dua ... Sync-Tool/

Seems like a straight forward and simple tool. Thoughts?
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Re: VTX 1800S Inconsistent Idle

Postby Bareass172 » Thu Jun 18, 2015 3:05 pm

armyjag wrote:Did the ground fix on the bike and cleaned all connections.
Took the idle adjustment and WD-40 the part. In addition, turned the adjustment and no indication of any binding in the device.

Did you unhook the cable from the left side to let it hang straight? I'm curious if that "unbound" it any.

armyjag wrote:Unwrapped the tape on the wire (yellow w/red stripe) and inspected it carefully and didn't find any breaks or indication there is any issue with the wire.

Can you even see any indication that the power commander was ever connected to it? Typically the PC would have been connected within just a few inches of the ECU. I feel like I'm beating this horse to death and then some, I'm just surprised there is not even any indication there was ever a connection there.

armyjag wrote:However, in the photo below, found this wire that was spliced together - seems like a sold connection, but if there is any recommendation to make a better connection, please let me know.
ImageImage

That is one of the main power wires for the bike. That splice is a factory splice, it's very stout. That comes from a 30A fuse under the left side cover and splits there to feed both the rectifier and the engine stop relay. Just wrap it back up and then put it back in the bundle with the rest of the wiring when you're closing it all up.

armyjag wrote:I have not done the TB sync as I found a homemade one I may try to get this bike back on the road. Here is the link: http://www.instructables.com/id/DIY-Dua ... Sync-Tool/
Seems like a straight forward and simple tool. Thoughts?

I like the idea to prevent sucking fluid back into the motor, it's a simple good one. My recommendations would be to use solid plastic bottles, meaning nothing as flimsy as water bottles are nowadays. The VTX pulls a lot of vacuum because of the displacement so I'd be afraid it would crush something that thin. Off top of my head, I think sports drink bottles are usually a little heftier.
Anyways, it seems like a good functional idea to me so give it a shot. Just be ready the first time you start the bike, with your finger on the kill switch - just in case the vacuum is so strong it crushes the bottles or draws the fluid quickly into one bottle where it becomes possible you'd draw fluid into the hose going to the bike. I don't think this will happen, but always better to be prepared!
Also, remember what my article says and make sure you warm the bike up first. Take it out for a spin, bring it home and tear it down for this, then let it idle awhile again to be sure it's good and warm before you start making adjustments. If you adjust the motor cold you will not end up with what you want.

Best of luck, post back with your results and pictures of your device! :thumb:
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Re: VTX 1800S Inconsistent Idle

Postby armyjag » Fri Jun 19, 2015 1:28 pm

Bare,

Took another close look at the issue and below are comments:

Bareass172 wrote:
armyjag wrote:Did the ground fix on the bike and cleaned all connections.
Took the idle adjustment and WD-40 the part. In addition, turned the adjustment and no indication of any binding in the device.

Did you unhook the cable from the left side to let it hang straight? I'm curious if that "unbound" it any.

I did take the cable to the right side of the bike and let it hang straight. Didn't seem to have any binding. I sprayed some WD-40 down the shaft and let it go to ensure the 40 has an opportunity to get down in the shaft of the cable.

armyjag wrote:Unwrapped the tape on the wire (yellow w/red stripe) and inspected it carefully and didn't find any breaks or indication there is any issue with the wire.

Can you even see any indication that the power commander was ever connected to it? Typically the PC would have been connected within just a few inches of the ECU. I feel like I'm beating this horse to death and then some, I'm just surprised there is not even any indication there was ever a connection there.

I have to admit, I had a serious brain fart :bomb: looking for this issue. I was looking at the wrong wire (Yellow wire with Red stripe), instead of the Red wire with yellow stripe. As you can see by the picture below, the wire was broken. In addition, the tap was so close to the connector, can't get the wire stripped to solder. While trying to stripe the wire, it started to come out of the plug from the connector. From what I can see, the plugs can be removed, however need recommendations how to fix this issue?

Thanks for staying on me about this issue :beer:

Image
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Re: VTX 1800S Inconsistent Idle

Postby Bareass172 » Fri Jun 19, 2015 4:31 pm

Aha! A smoking gun! That is exactly what I was referring to.
OK, this is a delicate process but it can be fixed, I've done it several times.
Here's the deal, make sure you unplug the ECU from the plug so the heat from soldering doesn't hurt anything given it's close proximity. I would say that you probably have enough room to do what you need to do as it sits, but if you're not comfortable there are alternatives. Get a piece of wire that is about 18 gauge to extend this wire a little bit and give you some breathing room, you don't need but 1" or so but you may feel more comfortable with 2-3". Depending on your comfort with soldering, you make the choice. You can also use a long piece of wire to make the first solder near the plug, then cut it down to size once you get some breathing room from the plug. I would also undo some of the tape on the wire harness to give you more clearance in that direction as well.
If you think you can do it that way, using the tiny bit of wire to make some space then go for it. If you think it's too close then the next step is this. Unplug the ECU from that gray plug. Look inside of it where it was plugged in and you'll see a black rubber boot that is held in at roughly the 4 corners by little rubber tabs. Carefully grab the rubber with pliers or something and pull it out of the gray hard plastic plug, it should come out with relative ease because it's so flexible. Now you can see the individual pins pretty well so take a flashlight and look into the holes where the pins are, you should be able to see a tiny little plastic hook that is part of the gray connector that locks the pin in place. Take a tiny pick or bend a paperclip straight and dig into that hole, the idea is to carefully catch that plastic "hook" and bend it away from the pin while slightly pulling on the pin from the back side of the gray plug. Do not pull hard on the wire until you have the little locking piece bent away from the pin. The harder you pull before you flex the locking part away, the harder it binds into the pin to hold it in place. When you get the little lock piece flexed away from the pin the pin should almost fall out it'll be so easy.
So, now that you have the pin out of the gray plug you can decide what you want to do. You may think with it free of the plug you have enough space to solder it. If not then this is the very tedious, "handle with care" part of this - you have to open the little bent "arms" that are folded over into the wire so you can remove the old wire and replace it with a new one. You must be careful or you will destroy the pin. I find a tiny pair of pliers and a tiny hooked pick work well for this job, but the key to success if patience as it will take some time to get the little arms starting to open. Once you get them moving it's usually easy.

Remember that even if you screw it up, it can be replaced. This place has almost every OEM connector that's made:
http://www.cycleterminal.com/ecu-connectors.html
Just remember that you'll probably pay more in shipping than the connector, lol...

Once you get the little pin "arms" open, you can remove the old wire and replace it with a piece of new. The little silicone bushing on the pin is a seal, so be careful with it as it is designed to seal out water so it can't be too damaged. Make sure when you replace the wire that you don't forget to put the little silicone sleeve on first OR if you forget you can always slide it down from the other end of the wire before you solder it there. My suggestion for the new wire is to give yourself a good long 6" or so piece to work with to make your life easier, you can always shorten it up later.

So install the new wire, redo the crimps, make sure you crimp in the silicone seal, then you will probably want to solder the new wire to the old wire in the harness, then once it's all done, sealed up with heatshrink and safe and secure, you can reinstall the pin into the gray connector. It should audibly "click" into place if you put it right side up and then a very light tug should tell you it's locked in. Reinstall the black rubber boot carefully, usually a tiny flat screwdriver helps get it back in place, then you can plug it back in and you're all set. It should really fix that issue you're having at idle, but improve how the bike runs all around! :thumb:

As always, any questions just ask. :beer:

PS - I saved your picture to hopefully help others in the future. :elated:
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Re: VTX 1800S Inconsistent Idle

Postby armyjag » Wed Jul 01, 2015 2:09 pm

Bareass172 wrote:Aha! A smoking gun! That is exactly what I was referring to.
OK, this is a delicate process but it can be fixed, I've done it several times.
Here's the deal, make sure you unplug the ECU from the plug so the heat from soldering doesn't hurt anything given it's close proximity. I would say that you probably have enough room to do what you need to do as it sits, but if you're not comfortable there are alternatives. Get a piece of wire that is about 18 gauge to extend this wire a little bit and give you some breathing room, you don't need but 1" or so but you may feel more comfortable with 2-3". Depending on your comfort with soldering, you make the choice. You can also use a long piece of wire to make the first solder near the plug, then cut it down to size once you get some breathing room from the plug. I would also undo some of the tape on the wire harness to give you more clearance in that direction as well.
If you think you can do it that way, using the tiny bit of wire to make some space then go for it. If you think it's too close then the next step is this. Unplug the ECU from that gray plug. Look inside of it where it was plugged in and you'll see a black rubber boot that is held in at roughly the 4 corners by little rubber tabs. Carefully grab the rubber with pliers or something and pull it out of the gray hard plastic plug, it should come out with relative ease because it's so flexible. Now you can see the individual pins pretty well so take a flashlight and look into the holes where the pins are, you should be able to see a tiny little plastic hook that is part of the gray connector that locks the pin in place. Take a tiny pick or bend a paperclip straight and dig into that hole, the idea is to carefully catch that plastic "hook" and bend it away from the pin while slightly pulling on the pin from the back side of the gray plug. Do not pull hard on the wire until you have the little locking piece bent away from the pin. The harder you pull before you flex the locking part away, the harder it binds into the pin to hold it in place. When you get the little lock piece flexed away from the pin the pin should almost fall out it'll be so easy.
So, now that you have the pin out of the gray plug you can decide what you want to do. You may think with it free of the plug you have enough space to solder it. If not then this is the very tedious, "handle with care" part of this - you have to open the little bent "arms" that are folded over into the wire so you can remove the old wire and replace it with a new one. You must be careful or you will destroy the pin. I find a tiny pair of pliers and a tiny hooked pick work well for this job, but the key to success if patience as it will take some time to get the little arms starting to open. Once you get them moving it's usually easy.

Remember that even if you screw it up, it can be replaced. This place has almost every OEM connector that's made:
http://www.cycleterminal.com/ecu-connectors.html
Just remember that you'll probably pay more in shipping than the connector, lol...

Once you get the little pin "arms" open, you can remove the old wire and replace it with a piece of new. The little silicone bushing on the pin is a seal, so be careful with it as it is designed to seal out water so it can't be too damaged. Make sure when you replace the wire that you don't forget to put the little silicone sleeve on first OR if you forget you can always slide it down from the other end of the wire before you solder it there. My suggestion for the new wire is to give yourself a good long 6" or so piece to work with to make your life easier, you can always shorten it up later.

So install the new wire, redo the crimps, make sure you crimp in the silicone seal, then you will probably want to solder the new wire to the old wire in the harness, then once it's all done, sealed up with heatshrink and safe and secure, you can reinstall the pin into the gray connector. It should audibly "click" into place if you put it right side up and then a very light tug should tell you it's locked in. Reinstall the black rubber boot carefully, usually a tiny flat screwdriver helps get it back in place, then you can plug it back in and you're all set. It should really fix that issue you're having at idle, but improve how the bike runs all around! :thumb:

As always, any questions just ask. :beer:

PS - I saved your picture to hopefully help others in the future. :elated:



Bare,

Finally completed the ground fix, solder of the wire, and putting the bike back together. It runs better now that those issues were addressed. However, riding the other day, bike overheat light came on. I remember reading an article somewhere on the forums how to check the fan etc. I disconnected the wire to the "Thermal Switch?" on the middle bottom of the radiator and grounded it - fan works. Checked the fuse in the box and the fuse is good. Not sure where to go with this issue other than possibly replace the "thermal switch" if that's what it is called on the bottom of radiator.

Any suggestions, or anything I missed?

As always - thanks.
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Re: VTX 1800S Inconsistent Idle

Postby yfx4 » Wed Jul 01, 2015 2:26 pm

Did you check the coolant reservoir to be sure you have enough coolant in it? I had a bad radiator cap on the Valkyrie that caused it to overheat.

You can idle it in the driveway to see if the fan comes on. I have had the thermal switch go bad. Easy fix but you drain the coolant in.the process. So be ready to pull the tank again to refill the system.
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Re: VTX 1800S Inconsistent Idle

Postby Bareass172 » Thu Jul 02, 2015 1:27 am

yfx4 nailed it. Check your coolant level and the reservoir and then run it in the driveway to be sure the fan comes on. If the fan comes on the switch is fine, I'd guess you may just be low on coolant causing the issue.
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Re: VTX 1800S Inconsistent Idle

Postby armyjag » Mon Jul 13, 2015 9:18 am

Bareass172 wrote:yfx4 nailed it. Check your coolant level and the reservoir and then run it in the driveway to be sure the fan comes on. If the fan comes on the switch is fine, I'd guess you may just be low on coolant causing the issue.


Checked the coolant level and the reservoir and both are full. I have run it in the driveway and the fan didn't come on. A couple of days ago riding it, about 93 degrees outside and in the city, the overheat light came on again when driving slowing through the streets. A short time afterwards the light went off. Not sure if the fan came on or not, as I couldn't hear it over the sound of the bike. Exhaust is drilled out from previous owner(s).

Speaking of the exhaust, I read another post in reference to exhaust, especially with it being drilled out. My exhaust ends are black soot colored. Is this a sign of running rich? Will the TB sync rectify this issue? I haven't done the TB sync yet, as its been way too nice not to get the bike out and riding.

Thanks
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Re: VTX 1800S Inconsistent Idle

Postby Bareass172 » Mon Jul 13, 2015 2:50 pm

If you left it in the driveway on a hot day for a few minutes idling and the fan didn't come on, then I expect the thermal switch is bad. The fact that you're topped up on coolant and have the overheat light coming on just seems to drive that point home to me. You would typically know if the fan came on riding around the street as the fan blows the hot air up between your legs at a stop and just roasts your crotch.

Before ordering a new switch do yourself a couple of quick favors to be sure it's a bad switch. I know you said you checked this already, but just to be sure before you waste time and money - pop the connector off and ground it and be sure the fan comes on (you said you did this), but also check the actual terminal connection to be sure it's not just corroded and preventing a good connection. Given that you checked it once I strongly suspect the switch, but always better safe than sorry. If this checks out fine then replace the switch. The switch should be Honda #37760-MT2-003 and it should come with a new O-ring.
There are 3 screws that remove the lower part of the rad cover to give you access, when you pull the switch you will drain the coolant. You can either use this as an excuse to flush the system or just drop what's in the rad through the switch port - up to you. The new switch gets torqued to 12 ft/lbs.
I did a brief run-down on the coolant flush here:
viewtopic.php?f=86&t=1836
You'll need to refill the coolant regardless of which method you choose.

Having black soot on your exhaust doesn't necessarily mean you're rich and I wouldn't worry about it unless you have other symptoms to cause concern. I would be much more interested in what your spark plugs look like before I'd read your exhaust tips. Even if you are a little bit rich, if the bike runs well and isn't exhibiting other problems I don't know that I'd worry too much about it - especially since you have no fuel manager at all on the bike. The TB sync is not really tied directly to the air/fuel ratio on the bike. It primarily helps the bike run and idle smoother which can have an impact on the A/F but I wouldn't say that you would solve an air/fuel issue by syncing the TB.

So one question from me - has the idle problem you initially described at the beginning of this thread been resolved since fixing that wire?
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Re: VTX 1800S Inconsistent Idle

Postby armyjag » Mon Jul 13, 2015 3:13 pm

Bare,

I will check the thermal switch for corrosion. It took me a little practice to solder, but got it done. After fixing the wire issue the bike idles well. However, just a quick question, when bike is first started, the idle is a little higher, which I assume if from being cold. I found that riding a short distance at a slightly higher RPM warmed up the engine enough to have lower idling speed.

I will pull the spark plugs a take a snapshot of them and reply to this thread.

Thanks again for all the advice.

Slowly but surely getting the small issues taken care of.
David A. Becker
US Army Retired
Bismarck, ND
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Re: VTX 1800S Inconsistent Idle

Postby yfx4 » Mon Jul 13, 2015 6:47 pm

The idle speed change is the wax valve working as it should..
..much like an automatic choke on a car.
Scott
2007 VTX1800R2 1999 Valk IS 2010 Spyder RT SE5
DISCLAIMER: I really have no idea what I'm talking about. If you take my advice on anything do so at your own risk. I'm pretty much clueless across the boarc. I just fiddle until it's fixed or REALLY broken.
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Re: VTX 1800S Inconsistent Idle

Postby Bareass172 » Tue Jul 14, 2015 2:19 pm

yfx4 nailed it again - the idle is working as intended. This is why you only adjust/set the idle on the bike after you have the bike warmed up. If you dial it down when the bike is cold then when it warms up the idle will be too low and the bike could stall out.
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Re: VTX 1800S Inconsistent Idle

Postby armyjag » Tue Jul 14, 2015 2:32 pm

Bareass172 wrote:yfx4 nailed it again - the idle is working as intended. This is why you only adjust/set the idle on the bike after you have the bike warmed up. If you dial it down when the bike is cold then when it warms up the idle will be too low and the bike could stall out.


I learned this not too long ago, adjusted the idle too low and when it warmed up while riding - stalled. Connected the dots then.

Learning something new all the time with this bike.
David A. Becker
US Army Retired
Bismarck, ND
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